Italy- Timeless Enchantment - An Etruscan Journey
By KT O'Neill
Photos courtesy of Tuscan Trails
I feel the ancientness of the woods surrounding us in my bones. This is, and always has been, a timeless place. Inhaling the rich, dark perfume of thick compost and sweet horse-musk I think to myself, “There is paradise on earth and I'm in it!"
Our group passes through this enchanted countryside, the muted "clop, clop, clop" of our horses' hooves beating time to the birds singing overhead. Through the trees we catch glimpses of the massive enclosing walls of Sorano. Passing through ancient gates and clattering up cobblestone streets, we're entranced by the elegant Renaissance architecture of this medieval jewel. I feel like I've been transported back in time on my Tuscany horse riding holiday. A traditional pranzo (lunch) eaten under an ancient oak beneath the sapphire blue Tuscan sky while serenaded by birdsong reinforces the feeling. As we eat, our horses relax, swishing tails and dozing in the late spring heat.
After a relaxing a bit in the warm, spring sunshine we mount up and begin the second part of the day's ride. Wildflowers in a riot of color accent the lush green of the hillsides. Our path slowly begins to ascend as we wind our way up a sheer-sided path until we reach the Citta del Tufo - Colombari Archaeological Park, an Etruscan site dating back to the 6th century B.C. There are hundreds of caves carved into the tufa hillsides and row upon row of pre 5th century B.C. niches that held terra cotta funerary urns.
I've joined Michele Dolcetta, Tuscan Trails' owner and guide, for an excursion of a lifetime; Etrusca on horseback! “Where?". Etrusca - the heart and soul of Italy. Taking its name from the ancient civilization that gave birth to the Roman Empire, Etrusca encompasses northern Lazio, central Tuscany and western Umbria and is, without a doubt, one of the most stunningly beautiful places on earth. The dramatic Tyrrhenian coastline gives way to ancient hillsides where sheep quietly graze on grass-covered slopes under azure skies dusted with angel-hair clouds. Famous for incredible wines and world-renowned cuisine, incomparable vistas and elegant villas, no place in the world can compare - especially if you're experiencing it from the back of a horse.
The seven-day itinerary includes peaceful rides under ancient oak, breech and chestnut canopies crisscrossed with ancient rivers and streams, past unending fields of saffron-yellow sunflowers that skirt tufa hillsides, picnic lunches in medieval villages, and easy cantering over the typical southern Tuscan landscape of the Maremma where Butteri (Italian cowboys) tend the huge, white long-horned Maremma cattle mounted on their Maremma horses. The essence of the Etruscans permeates every corner of this enchanted landscape, their burial niches and tombs lining almost every path and road.
The agriturismo accommodations offer homemade pastas and sauces, farm-grown produce, specialty cheeses made on the premises, fresh from the oven desserts and excellent local wine. Most are renovated Tuscan casale (traditional farm houses) with beautifully appointed rooms, private bathes and lovely grounds. The one notable exception - Castello de Proceno is an incredible 12th century castle that's been in the owner's family for over 900 years.
The pace and often difficult terrain make this a ride for experienced trail riders able to handle low jumps and some long, tough hours in the saddle. The horses are young, but sure-footed; however, they do require experienced riders with a good seat. English style tack is used so breeches and high boots, or gaiters with saddle-seat/half-boots, are recommended.
Having gone on several other horse holidays, I truly appreciate Michele's calm professionalism and ability to understand his guests' riding abilities and needs. The constraints he faces each and every ride are those of time and necessity; time because the holiday is a programmed seven days of riding; necessity because the safety and well-being of every rider is the foremost priority. Having the ability to select the right horse for the right rider is something unique and special.
After a brief rest to water the horses, we mount up and set out. I can see that both horses and riders are content and relaxed, another yet-undiscovered vista waiting right around the next bend of this dream week in the unforgettable Etruscan Maremma countryside.
