Horse Riding Magnificent Majella in Italy
Learn about a horseback riding vacation through the Abruzzo region of Italy in La Majella, a national park with sensational scenery at every turn-–– mountainsides swathed in wild flowers, wild boar, roe and red deer, chamois, golden eagles, wolves and bear.
by Susanne Metzger
I have just returned from a four-day, one hundred plus kilometer trek around a small part of La Majella, in Abruzzo with Parco Equituristico Majella Morrone. I chose to go in mid to late June as I know the flowers in these mainly limestone mountains are spectacular in spring. I have ridden for many years and am a pretty decent rider. My only other experience of 'trekking' was many years ago in Wales where the horses were good solid plodders who got into line and fell asleep until we got home. Other clients arrived in shorts and flip-flops. There were about fifteen of us and the ride was very, very 'safe'. And I vowed never to go 'horse trekking' ever again.
However, these four days were a gift, and I know how spectacular the area is, so I was looking forward to the experience but mostly for the environment and the flora and fauna we'd encounter.
As soon as I arrived I knew it was going to be different. I met Frank Montefusco and his lovely partner, Claudia, and I immediately understood this was going to be a wholly different experience. I met the one other rider, RM, and we all sat and had a glass of wine with some of the local cheese and salami and discussed Frank's itinerary for the next four days. Their philosophy is very holistic - the horses, the environment, the local culture and history, the food, the mountains - they are all inextricably linked.
So then we met the horses–– Alex, Mutley and ZaZa. They are all Haflingers, which are sure-footed, solid, calm, intelligent, single minded, blond and beautiful with generations of 'mountain' coursing through their veins. Like mountain people, you have to gain their respect before they agree to work with you and be friends.
Frank had made sure RM and I were very similar abilities, and we all decided we wanted to ride 'in liberta', bitless. So we tacked up* and worked in the school until Frank was happy we would manage without the bits. Then we set off.
Meantime, Claudia took all our stuff to our first hotel, so we travelled light but with essentials in the saddlebags.
Each day was different–– up, down and across the mountains, always through swathes of flowers. Along narrow mountain paths, through ancient beech woods, down almost vertical slopes (our favorite now officially named 'the black run'), up steep mountainsides, through streams and past panoramic views. The Haflingers took everything in their stride. Nothing spooked them.
Along the way we saw a large herd of wild horses, water buffalo (for Mozzarella!), many wild boar with their stripy piglets, golden eagles, kestrels, roe deer, red deer - we didn't spot Chamois, but they are up there, as are wolves and bears.
This video is in Italian, but the images need to translation!
This type of riding is challenging because of the environment but also because of the individuality of the horses. We travelled at all paces including on foot, depending on the terrain. Frank's sense of fun and knowledge of his horses meant everyone, including the Alex, Mutley and ZaZa, had an excellent time.
Each lunchtime, we stopped in some breathtakingly beautiful place where we dismounted, watered the horses and then let them wander off to graze whilst we ate the simple, delicious packed lunch provided by Claudia every morning. We drank the same spring water as the horses.
In the evenings, we arrived at our next destination, had a couple of hours to shower and visit the village, and then met Frank and Claudia for supper in restaurants they had tried and ensured would serve delicious Abruzzese cuisine.
Over the four days we saw how well Frank treats his horses. He has a very instinctive understanding and relationship with them. He commands their respect through his knowledge and exceptional treatment of them. For example, the first night we stayed in a hotel in the middle of a huge open mountain plain, so he had to tether the horses one at a time so, since they stay together, they wouldn't stray too far whilst grazing. Frank camped out with them, woke up every two hours to alternately tether or free each of the three horses. I suspect most people would have either chosen an easier location or left the horses tethered all night.
We covered over one hundred kilometers in the four days but only got a taste of how much more there is to see, visit and experience in La Majella. I now know what I'm doing every June** for the rest of my life! If you love riding, and you love nature, and you feel they are connected, then this is the riding holiday for you.
I hate lists but if there's one ride you do this year, this life, make it this one. You will not be disappointed.
*All the tack is specialized top of the range trekking gear and fantastically comfortable for both horse and rider.
** I discovered that, actually, the mountain tops and slopes continue to be blanketed in swathes of color through until autumn. So, anytime between about late April and late October would be ideal.
How you can go: Susanne rode with Parco Equituristico Majella Morrone, located a 2.5 hours drive from Rome, in the Parco Nazionale della Majella or Maiella National Park.
About the author: Susanne Metzger designs gardens in London and has always ridden. She's lived in Italy for 8 years and is passionate about nature.
